Inside Japanese Street Fashion: A Guide to Its Most Iconic Styles

The street fashion scene in Japan encompasses a wide variety of distinct and imaginative styles, from the vibrant maximalism of Decora to the glamorous hair and makeup of Visual Kei. Gaining rapid popularity in the 1980s, these styles were greatly influenced by urban fashion districts, notably Harajuku, which is globally recognized for its role in cultivating Japan’s alternative street fashion.

The Harajuku area, located in the Shibuya District of Tokyo, is best known for Takeshita Street, which is home to various clothing and accessory shops. The foundation of fashion in Harajuku can be credited to three brands: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Comme des Garçons (founded by Rei Kawakubo), along with fashion magazine FRUiTS.  Within a society known for its conformist and conservative nature, street fashion in Japan has flourished, evolving into what it is today. 

Here are a few of the most recognizable styles!

An example of Lolita fashion

Lolita fashion, defined by its recognizable silhouette and the volume of the skirt/dress, is influenced by Victorian clothing and Rococo period styles, with a heavy focus on petticoats. Despite the many different sub-styles of Lolita fashion (classic, gothic, and sweet), it is distinct in its ‘cute’ style.  The style’s standard wardrobe consists of frilly skirts, dresses, blouses, and accessories, such as headdresses, that are usually adorned with bows and frills. 

An example of Gyaru style

The Gyaru style is often associated with gaudy fashion, makeup, and hairstyles. This typically includes flashy eye makeup and colored contacts, heavily bleached or dyed hair, and artificial nails. As for clothing, styles vary widely across different sub-styles but are often defined by vibrant colors and heavy accessories. Shibuya 109, a department store in Japan, is considered to be the origin of Gyaru apparel, now seen as a sanctuary for those within the subculture. The term "Gyaru," a transliteration of the English word gal, is also used in Japan to refer to a young woman who is cheerful, energetic, and sociable. In this sense, Gyaru describes both fashion and culture, originating as a rebellious, nonconformist style that went against traditional Japanese beauty standards and social norms. 

An example of Decora style

Decora is a playful style that is widely considered the face of Harajuku fashion, featuring bright, vibrant colors, with its main focus on large amounts of accessories. The term Decora comes from the word decoration, in reference to the style’s use of different characteristic accessories. Beyond the copious amounts of accessories, some common clothing items include tutu skirts, leg warmers, and knee-high socks. Decora is also heavily inspired by 80s cartoons and kawaii characters, such as those of Sanrio, Care Bears, and Strawberry Shortcake, with much of its apparel featuring these themes. 

An example of Visual Kei

Visual Kei, similarly to Gyaru, refers to both a fashion style and an artistic movement among Japanese music artists. The term “Visual Kei” was first used in 1992 to describe the style of artists, combining elaborate makeup, hairstyles, and androgynous aesthetics. Since Visual Kei refers to the fashion worn by various bands, the style is fairly broad, though there are some common themes. These include dark color schemes, particularly in more gothic versions of the style.  

Despite the fact that alternative styles in Japan have somewhat declined in popularity since the 1980s, they are still a distinct and vibrant aspect of the Japanese fashion scene and deeply important to the culture as a whole. 

Written by: Savannah Wagner

Edited by: Demi Kirkopoulos