The fashion season has once again kicked off at Milan Fashion Week, featuring 176 events comprising four digital and 62 physical runway shows. These events debuted upcoming spring and summer ready-to-wear pieces by powerhouse Italians brands, the likes of Gucci, Prada, Fendi, and Versace, bringing numerous trends to the Milan Fashion stage for the 2024 season. This year, the introduction of new directors to the fashion scene was particularly noteworthy. British designer Peter Hawkins continued the legacy of sleek and sexy as the creative director for Tom Ford, while Italian designer Simone Bellotti launched his debut show with Bally, described as "a distinguished cultivation of classic silhouettes" (Sacal).
Many significant figures made a statement in Milan, particularly with the return of 90s supermodels to the runway, featuring Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell. This nostalgic comeback added an extra layer of excitement to the event. Furthermore, the presence of fashion royalty was quite prominent, with media stars and fashion icons like 90s model Kate Moss, Spanish singer-songwriter Rosalía, actress Emma Watson, K-pop star An Yu-jin, and even 'Ken' from the Barbie movies, Ryan Gosling, gracing the occasion.
Emerging trends were showcased by many brands, with short-shorts, tailoring, striking color combinations, and sheer, voluminous textures taking over the week. Three iconic fashion houses – Fendi, Tom Ford, and Versace – unveiled exhilarating trends set to define the spring of 2024.
Tom Ford, renowned for its sultry allure, rejuvenated the spirit of the 1990s with a collection that exudes sensuality. Slinky silhouettes, nostalgic velvet, and crocodile-patterned leather took center stage, along with chic satin and feathered details. The iconic short hemlines and tailored velvet and satin suits with plunge-neckline shirts making a bold return, complemented by textures, maxi and mini dresses with sheer fabrics, and feathers, offering a fresh sensuality with a more modest touch.
Trend 1: The shorter the better
Ford showcased the models’ sinuous silhouettes and long legs within his designs that
incorporated tiny trouser shorts. “…This season shorts are a thing…” (Nicole Phelps).
Trend 2: Suits & Tailoring
The attention to detail, slinky velvets and satins and tailoring used across many of the suit
designs are sure to catch in the new fashion year, it’s gorgeously chic and revitalizes Gucci in its 90s golden age.
Trend 3: Textures: sheer fabrics, feathers, and prints
Across the whole week at Milan Fashion Week, wearing sheer clothing is the new it-girl fashion.
New creative director, Peter Hawkins, didn’t shy away from Ford’s traditional embrace for sexy
and playful styles, we saw many bold choices involving sheer fabrics, feathers, crocodile-printed
leather, and fringe.
Versace, always at the forefront of fashion, unveiled a playful and feminine collection
that drew inspiration from the 1960s. Donatella Versace, artistic director and vice president,
describes the collection as, “Free. Vibrant. Confident. Daring” on her Instagram. Barbie-like
pastels, graphic prints, and vibrant checkerboard patterns added a joyful and youthful vibe. The
boxy, sharp, and printed designs were complemented by billowy shorts, bows, and ballerina flats.
The 60s-inspired skirts and pastel blazers showcased sophistication and retro elegance, while
looser jacket proportions and intricate embellishments added a touch of glam.
Trend 1: Pastels
The Versace runway was filled with gorgeous pastels ranging from baby-blues and pinks to
vibrant yellows to fresh, vibrant greens. As designer, Donatella Versace, stated on her Instagram,
"… This is a Versace summer with color and shine…”. The pastels are aligned with the very
feeling of spring: vibrant, youthful, and filled with new energy.
Trend 2: Tailoring (part 2!)
Once again, tailoring, and meticulous detail is being given to the many jackets,
suits, coats, vests, shorts, pants, skirts, and other items showcased on the Versace runway. The
boxy framing, statement buttons, and feminine, rounded collars of the outfits adds to the 60s feel
of the pieces too.
Trend 3:
The 60s are back! Every item in this collection showcased a 60s look in a modern, sharp, and
graphic way. From the checkerboard prints to the bows and ballerina flats, to the boxy suits and
pastel colors, to the classic houndstooth prints, the 60s was innovatively included into each
piece, adding a sophisticated flair to the girlish designs. Donatella Versace expressed on her
Instagram about the collection, “This collection is joyful and sharp. The Versace woman is free
and vibrant."
Fendi, on the other hand, presented a collection that seamlessly blended classic Roman
architecture with modern fashion sensibilities. British designer, Kim Jones, headed this
collection and it was a true hit in Milan. He described in the notes for the collection, “In Rome,
there is an elegance in ease and not caring what anybody else thinks—that is real luxury. In this
collection, I wanted to reflect that.” The monochromatic color palette was enlivened with lemon
yellows, deep oranges, grey-blues, and lime greens. The silhouette of the clothing exuded easy
confidence and luxury, with buttonless designs and statement accessories. From tailored pieces
with 90s nostalgia to asymmetrical layering and timeless fluidity, Fendi brought together a fusion
of menswear into the female pieces. Vibrant patterns, block colors, and mid-tone browns
captured the essence of spring 1999. The range spanned from mini dresses with asymmetrical
cardigan layering to ‘office chic’ pantsuits to maxi dresses with oversized jackets, catering to
diverse fashion tastes.
Trend 1: Color mix-ups
Block coloring alongside monochromatic mid-tone browns, whites, blacks, and greys were a
major part of the Fendi show. Alongside vibrant yellows, oranges, reds, and a calmer blue-grey
that was common too. It is reminiscent of the colors used in the 1999 Fendi spring show, and the
interesting combinations of color are a fantastic, timeless way to showcase personality through
the collection.
Trend 2: Workwear chic
The easy confidence that Kim Jones emphasizes in this collection, is especially seen in
his ladylike, business-casual pieces. The buttonless, luxurious design of these pieces shows the
inspiration from the Roman classical sculptures and this Noble Energy radiates through the office
wear pieces. Anyone can create a similar look by using any suit or dress they already have,
adding splashes of color in their bag, gloves or shoes and layering a monochromatic jacket or
cardigan on top. This is a versatile and wearable style that is sure to be popular.
Trend 3: Asymmetrical layering
Another wearable and elegant trend was the use of layering within this collection.
Especially asymmetrical layering, with a cardigan wrapped around a shoulder, or details that
wrap across the body. This is reflective of the Roman sculptural influence Kim used for this
collection, and the asymmetrical garments classical figures wear. It is a classic, tasteful design
that adds dimension to any look.
With these three fashion powerhouses leading the way, Milan Fashion Week 2023
provided a sneak peek into the vibrant and eclectic trends that will grace the spring of 2024.
Prepare to embrace sultry nostalgia, playful femininity, and a fusion of classic and modern, as
these trends take center stage in the coming season.
Citations:
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