Once existing as a standard of womanhood, corsets have had their place in history for the
past three millennia. Initially recognized as a sculpting tool, corsets are now better known as an
accessorized aesthetic – still emphasizing a curved shape. Through times of harsh feminine
standards, the corset has seen many eras of development.
The first appearance of the corset was first documented in a sculpture of the Minoan
snake goddess around 1000 B.C. Similar garments were found in additional Minoan artwork
suggesting an androgynous use of the corset. These corsets were likely confined to ceremonial
wear. The oldest material corset was found in a tomb in Greece. “Zone,” an ancient Greek style
of wool and linen, was the next recorded occurrence of the corset. This style was similar to a belt
– fitting firmly around the waist with decorated embellishment. These corsets were worn to
achieve a slim waist at the time. The corset experienced a period of little significance during
most of the Middle Ages – as the women's bodies were perceived as sinful.
Illustration of Minoan Goddess Corset
During the 1500s, corsets began being worn by women of the French court. At this time,
corsets were used to flatten the torso while emphasizing the chest and skirt; the corset’s main
purpose was not to slim the waist. By the mid-1500s, the corset became more common. These
garments were now constructed with a “busk:” a thin, flat piece of wood or whalebone inserted
down the center-front of the garment. This piece was intended to influence a straight posture.
Busks constructed from whale baleen made their first appearance in the 1580s through the
journal of Elizabeth I, Queen of England and Ireland. The corset silhouette was conical.
The oldest surviving corset (pair of bodies) buried with Pfalzgrafin Dorthea Sabine von Neuberg
(1598)
Corsets were worn both as under and outer garments. In the 17th century, outer corsets
began seeing embellishment through features like the decorative “stomacher:” a triangular piece
worn on the abdomen, filling space between the bodice and gown. “Farthingale” was another
component added to the stomacher: a circular skirt used to enlarge and shape the skirt’s appearance.
The corset waistline started high, but eventually ended up stretching long. Instead of a flat
neckline, as seen in the 16th century, corsets now had a round and open design. Like in the
previous century, designs were still conical and stiffly boned. During the Regency period (1795
to 1837), these garments were common in British society.
17th-century design: Courtesy of Bath and North East Somerset Council/Museum of Costume,
Bath
In the 18th century, corsets were still designed conically, with stiff structures. Unlike
previous eras, the corset was designed with the purpose of waist-slimming. This era of corsets
was referred to as “stays.” Stays were either linen, wool, or cotton, and cuts in the waistbands
allowed women to wear the garments with more comfort. These corsets were typically
embellished with fine stitching, gold trimmings, and silk brocade.
18th-century style stays
In the mid-19th century, an hourglass shape was in style. The waistline was falling and
innovative patterns were coming into fashion. Mid-century, in 1849, Joseph Cooper invented the
front-fastening bus. With this invention, corsets were able to be taken off without complete
unlacing – instead requiring some loosening. A couple of years later, Roxey Ann Caplin,
introduced innovative styles displayed at the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park, London (1851).
This design became known as the Victorian style of corset – ridding previous features of
shoulder straps and adding tight lacing to the back to accentuate a slim waist.
19th-century corset
In the 20th century, the corset experienced more altercations. In the early 1900s, a very
low bust line, called Mono bosom, was introduced. The Edwardian S-Bend corset, pushed the
hips back – creating an s-silhouette. Some designers began ditching the corset – foreshadowing
the garment’s downfall about a decade later. Around 1920, the slim waist fell out of vogue and a
straight figure was more widely desired; less constricting corsets were worn. As more women
began participating in athletics, the corset started falling out of style – as the build was largely
impractical. The corset left mainstream fashion during the First World War, and much more
practical and relaxing attire came into style. Women were pushed to ditch the corset, as the metal
used in its design was utilized to build weaponry. Post-WWII, the corset was pushed away – as
many traditionally feminine products were protested as symbols of male oppression. Although,
these garments were still popular on the silver screen with actresses like Audrey Hepburn and
Marilyn Monroe. While the corset’s popularity fell for a couple of decades, it returned in the 70s
and 80s as a symbol of female empowerment. Corsets can be seen in the work of designers like
Vivienne Westwood and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Gaultiers most popular corset design was one worn
by Madonna on her Blonde Ambition tour. This marked the beginning of corsets being
re-popularized as outerwear.
1900s “S” Corset
Still, in the 21st century, corsets are deemed fashionable by many as both undergarments
and outerwear. Today, there is a much larger focus on stylish comfort than previously. New
materials such as denim and new corset dress designs can be seen in modern fashion – showing
off new innovative and experimental styles. Through the mainstream lens, these garments are no
longer used to portray unattainable body standards as they did through many eras of popular
fashion. Despite this, the issue of “trending body types” has not left the mainstream. There are
still unrealistic standards of appearance called for through trends like the thigh gap in the early
2010s and the hourglass shape in the mid-2010s. Although there has been a progression toward
inclusivity and the promotion of healthy beauty, there is still undeniable progress to be made.
Ermanno Scervino Demin Corset; Out From Under Coucou Lace-Trim Corset Urban
Outfitters
https://corset-story.co.uk/blogs/news/the-history-of-corsets
https://thewildcattribune.com/13604/ae/the-history-behind-corsets-how-a-piece-of-clothing-spar
ked-controversy-criticism-and-empowerment/
https://www.eriehistory.org/blog/the-changing-silhouette-of-victorian-womens-fashions-the-histo
ry-of-the-corset
https://glamorouscorset.com/articles/who-invented-the-corset/
https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/corset-history-1500-1900
https://world4.eu/minoan-costume/
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