Blurring The Lines: Androgyny in Fashion
- Sophia Tronnes
- 2 days ago
- 3 min read
Updated: 6 hours ago
In the past, androgynous fashion simply meant a woman wearing men’s clothes, and vice versa. But recently, androgynous fashion has been reimagined. Styles aim to transcend traditional gender fashion norms, focusing on fluidity and expression. Androgynous fashion is on the rise, mixing fashion with activism.
We see androgynous fashion influencing modern trends. Loose cuts, dropped shoulders, and wide-leg trousers have risen in popularity. These silhouettes reject what has been seen as traditionally flattering, especially for the “feminine form.” The rejection of what has been traditionally gendered is noticeable in today’s tailoring trends. Double-breasted coats, blazers without darts, and gender-neutral trousers do away with the hyper-feminine and hyper-masculine indicators traditionally associated with workwear and tailoring. In all of these trends, we see the use of neutral, muted color palettes, but some are subverting this neutrality by embracing pops of color.
The rise in androgyny has also reshaped the way outfits are styled. Layering is a way to achieve different looks with the same pieces. A single outfit can shift from feminine to masculine by changing how to layer each piece. Styling with contrast allows boundaries to be pushed, whether it’s pairing leather with silk, mixing fabrics, or layering sharp lines over softer silhouettes. This subversion of traditional styling conventions rejects the notion of gendered fashion norms, often complemented by minimalist accessories free from overt gender markers, favoring clean lines, simple forms, and understated designs.
We have seen androgynous styles take over the runway. This is evident through collections like Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 1999 and Fall/Winter 1997 Women. Here, Yamamoto experimented with layered garments that conceal the body's shape, shifting between delicate and structured forms, often pairing dresses over trousers or layering jackets and shirts of varying textures. Designers like Yamamoto reinterpret menswear by playing with ‘softer’ detail, leading to more fluidity in his designs, and adding vulnerability to what is seen as masculine.
Similarly, Rei Kawakubo challenges traditional gender roles by refusing to design clothing that is “flattering on the body” and breaks away from the traditional ideals of beauty and femininity. This is displayed through the exaggerated proportions and colors shown in her collection “Sweeter than Sweet” (Comme des Garçons, Fall 1995). Instead of body-revealing “femininity,” the clothes concealed and constrained the body, challenging the idea that women’s fashion must flatter or free it. Kawakubo fought against oversexualization and unrealistic standards that are present in women’s fashion through her unconventional designs.
But androgyny is nothing new to the runway. Yves Saint Laurent’s “Le Smoking” suit from 1966 remains a turning point on the runway. A tuxedo made for women, making masculine tailoring for the female form. This was one of the first times fashion gender norms were explicitly blurred, pushing androgyny into the mainstream. It allowed women to wear a symbol of male power and elegance while remaining confident in femininity.
Influences have extended far beyond the runway. Notably, in the 1970s, androgynous fashion gained popularity through the likes of David Bowie, Prince, and Grace Jones. Bowie used Ziggy Stardust to express androgyny through his alien persona, using makeup, glitter, and tight silhouettes to reject binary expression. Prince wore lace blouses, heels, and eyeliner to craft his own expression through fashion. Grace Jones used sharp lines, heavy makeup and heels to shatter conventional fashion norms.
Androgynous fashion is more than style; it is activism. By blurring gender binaries, it challenges the societal structures of what is masculine and feminine. It breaks our expectations of gender, asserts autonomy over identity, and resists binary categorization. Androgynous fashion reclaims the freedom to exist authentically, especially for the queer, nonbinary, and trans communities. Androgynous fashion isn’t just about clothes. It’s about visibility, autonomy, and the freedom to craft yourself in your own image.
Written by: Sophia Tronnes & Aidan Angeles
Edited by: Graeme Duffey
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